Author Archives: Stephen

Shop Dust Collection

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For years, the only dust collection I did was with my Shop Vacuum. I hooked the hose up to the dust ports on my sanders. Effective dust collection was nearly impossible with my Shopsmith, so I used a dust mask when sawing, jointing or using the bandsaw or lathe.

For years, the only dust collection I did was with my Shop Vacuum. I hooked the hose up to the dust ports on my sanders. Effective dust collection was nearly impossible with my Shopsmith, so I used a dust mask when sawing, jointing or using the bandsaw or lathe.

I made a foot switch to make it easier to turn my shop vacuum on and off with. The shop vac plugs into the switch half of the outlet. Two push toggle switch wired in parallel (to handle the current) break the hot line. The spring keeps the petal against the top of the switches. Notice the area chiseled out on the under side of the petal to all it to set down squarely on the top of the switches.

I made a foot switch to make it easier to turn my shop vacuum on and off with. The shop vac plugs into the switched half of the outlet. Two push toggle switch wired in parallel (to handle the current) break the hot line. The spring keeps the petal tight against the top of the switches. Notice the area chiseled out on the under side of the petal to allow it to set down squarely on the top of the switches.

My next step up was to hang a Jet Air Filtration unit from the ceiling. This pulled the fine air-borne dust out of the air when I was using tools that made fine dust - chief among them the table saw. I still had to wear a dust mask, but I could take it off after the shop air made its way through the filter - about 20 minutes on the high fan speed.

My next step up was to hang a Jet Air Filtration unit from the ceiling. This pulled the fine air-borne dust out of the air when I was using tools that made fine dust – chief among them the table saw. I still had to wear a dust mask, but I could take it off after the shop air made its way through the filter – about 20 minutes on the high fan speed.

My next leap forward was to get a Dust Deputy cyclone. The cyclone separated 95+ percent of the sawdust and collects it in a 5 gallon pail. The Shop Vacuum filter stays amazingly clean. I shake it out about twice a year instead of once a week. Almost no dust makes it into the Shop Vacuum collection canister. I always have plenty of suction.

My next leap forward was to get a Dust Deputy cyclone. The cyclone separated 95+ percent of the sawdust and collects it in a 5 gallon pail. The Shop Vacuum filter stays amazingly clean. I shake it out about twice a year instead of once a week. Almost no dust makes it into the Shop Vac collection canister. I always have plenty of suction.

A few months ago I got a SawStop cabinet saw for Christmas. I now had a table saw I could do effective dust collection with. So I purchased the Harbor Freight 2 HP single stage dust collector. To increase its effectiveness I bought a trash can separator lid from Woodcraft along with a standard 32 gallon metal trash can to turn it into a two stage system. I have not had to empty the dust collector's plastic bag yet. Here you can see it hooked up to the 2 inch floor sweep that that came with my Shop Vacuum. Another big plus of using the trash can separator is that any metal and big chunks of debris that is sucked up stays in the trash can and does not make its way through the impeller on the dust collector.

A few months ago I got a SawStop cabinet saw for Christmas. I now had a table saw I could do effective dust collection with. So I purchased the Harbor Freight 2 HP single stage dust collector. To increase its effectiveness I bought a trash can separator lid from Woodcraft along with a standard 32 gallon metal trash can to turn it into a two stage system. I haven’t had to empty the dust collector’s plastic bag yet. Here you can see it hooked up to the 2 inch floor sweep that that came with my Shop Vacuum. Another big plus of using the trash can separator is that any metal and big chunks of debris that is sucked up stays in the trash can and does not make its way through the impeller on the dust collector.

The biggest challenge I faced was getting all of the dust collection pieces to fit together. My dust collector has a 5 inch inlet. It also came with a Wye with two 4 inch ports. I dedicate one port to the SawStop, and the other to the trash can separator. In order to use standard 4 inch blast gates I found that 4 inch PVC electrical conduit sections worked well as couplers. The little play that existed was made up with a few wraps of duct tape.

The biggest challenge I faced was getting all of the dust collection pieces to fit together. My dust collector has a 5 inch inlet. It also came with a Wye with two 4 inch ports. I dedicate one port to the SawStop, and the other to the trash can separator. In order to use standard 4 inch blast gates I found that 4 inch PVC electrical conduit sections worked well as couplers. The little play that existed was made up with a few wraps of duct tape.

I have added a wye connection to my SawStop dust collection port to allow a 2-1/4 inch hose to be run up to the dust collection port on the blade guard. When not in use, a plug is inserted into the small wye inlet.

I have added a wye connection to my SawStop dust collection port to allow a 2-1/4 inch hose to be run up to the dust collection port on the blade guard. When not in use, a plug is inserted into the small wye inlet.

Even tougher is finding reducers that will fit into the dust ports on particular tools. I found that in many cases using a standard 4 inch to 2-1/4 inch reducer would not work by itself. The OD of 1-1/2 inch thick wall PVC will fit inside the 2-1/2 adapter. I would then build up the outside the PVC with nylon tape coated with epoxy to get the exact size I needed for a particular tool.

Even tougher is finding reducers that will fit into the dust ports on particular tools. I found that in many cases using a standard 4 inch to 2-1/4 inch reducer would not work by itself. The OD of 1-1/2 inch thick wall PVC will fit inside the 2-1/2 adapter. I would then build up the outside the PVC with nylon tape coated with epoxy to get the exact size I needed for a particular tool.

Here is an adapter I made for my Dewalt Orbital sander so I can use it with my standard Shop Vacuum hose. It is held into the sander with two strips of tire inner tube stretched over screw heads.

Here’s an adapter I made for my Dewalt Orbital sander so I can use it with my standard Shop Vacuum hose. It is held into the sander with two strips of tire inner tube stretched over screw heads.

A standard 2-1/2 to 4 inch reducer allows the dust collector to be attached to the bandsaw. Dust collection is vastly improved when the reduction is done right at the machine.

A standard 2-1/2 to 4 inch reducer allows the dust collector to be attached to the bandsaw. Dust collection is vastly improved when the reduction is done right at the machine.

An adjustable collar to hold a 1-1/4 Shop Vacuum hose provides chip collection on the Drill Press.

An adjustable collar to hold a 1-1/4 Shop Vacuum hose provides chip collection on the Drill Press.

The hardest tool to capture sawdust from is my miter saw. I made a dust hood out of 5mm plywood and mounted a mini collection hood on the side. This is a work in progress, as I am currently only capturing about 70% of the dust. I am toying with some ideas to enclose more of the front area while still leaving space for my arm to operate the saw and retain adequate visibility.

The hardest tool to capture sawdust from is my miter saw. I made a dust hood out of 5mm plywood and mounted a mini collection hood on the side. This is a work in progress, as I am currently only capturing about 70% of the dust. I am toying with some ideas to enclose more of the front area while still leaving space for my arm to operate the saw and retain adequate visibility.

Did a bit of work enclosing all the wide open spaces. I made sure that the saw can still be pivoted 45 degrees in either direction. The front enclosures on either side can be removed if need be. The improvement in the amount of sawdust captured is amazing!

Did a bit of work enclosing all the wide open spaces. I made sure that the saw can still be pivoted 45 degrees in either direction. The front enclosures on either side can be removed if need be. The improvement in the amount of sawdust captured is amazing!

I have done a bit of tweaking with various dust collection components. One of the ways I use to gauge a change to my setup is to measure the static pressure using a manometer. Mine is just a piece of plywood with clear tubing held in a "U" with romex staples and filled with food coloring dyed water. A piece of paper with lines spaced 1 inch apart provides a way to read the static pressure at a point in the system. Here I am measuring the static pressure at the input of my trash can separator. Since I know the static pressure at the input of my 5 inch duct on my dust collector, I can determine my static pressure loss due to the trash can separator, hose, blast gate, and Wye.

I have done a bit of tweaking with various dust collection components. One of the ways I use to gauge a change to my setup is to measure the static pressure using a manometer. Mine is just a piece of plywood with clear tubing held in a “U” with romex staples and filled with food coloring dyed water. A piece of paper with lines spaced 1 inch apart provides a way to read the static pressure at a point in the system. Here I am measuring the static pressure at the input of my trash can separator. Since I know the static pressure at the input of my 5 inch duct on my dust collector, I can determine my static pressure loss due to the trash can separator, hose, blast gate, and Wye.

Shop Stool

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I made a stool for my shop with a piano style screw height adjustment. The basic plan was published in Woodsmith #201. I made a few changes which I will describe in the post.

I made a stool for my shop with a piano style screw height adjustment. The basic plan was published in Woodsmith #201. I made a few changes which I will describe in the post.

I started on the legs. I changed the leg pattern to make a broader foot and a wider top where it attaches to the hub to increase the strength. I laid all four legs on a single piece of 5/4 red oak - nesting them to reduce waste, and allowing the dado that accepts the hub spline to be cut along one side of the board to be cut simultaneously for all four legs. I then detached the legs from the board one at a time on the bandsaw by just cutting along the outer side of the leg.

I started on the legs. I changed the leg pattern to make a broader foot and a wider top where it attaches to the hub to increase the strength. I laid all four legs on a single piece of 5/4 red oak – nesting them to reduce waste, and allowing the dado that accepts the hub spline to be cut along one side of the board to be cut simultaneously for all four legs. I then detached the legs from the board one at a time on the bandsaw.

After detaching a leg I immediately drilled a half 1-1/8 inch hole on the back side of the leg for the foot rest recess, then a 1/4 inch pilot hole was centered in the recess for attachment of the footrest ring. This hole had to be drilled before the finished leg shape could be completed on the bandsaw to allow the hole to drilled at the correct angle.

After detaching a leg I immediately drilled a 1/4 inch pilot hole for attachment of the footrest ring. This hole had to be drilled before the finished leg shape could be completed on the bandsaw to all the hole to drilled at the correct angle.

Splines are used in the stool to attach the legs to the hub and strengthen the segments of the 8 sided footrest blank. I used walnut to provide contrast with the oak. I resawed the walnut to end up with a 5/16 thick spline for both the Hub and the ring. If I make another, I will use a tougher wood - probably brazilian cherry or cocobollo.

Splines are used in the stool to attach the legs to the hub and strengthen the segments of the 8 sided footrest blank. I used walnut to provide contrast with the oak. I resawed the walnut to end up with a 5/16 thick spline for both the Hub and the ring. If I make another, I will use a tougher wood – probably brazilian cherry or cocobollo.

Here is what the footrail looks like after the glueup. You can see where the walnut splines stick through the dado cut in each end of the 8 segments, each angled at 22 1/2 degrees. I made the ring and legs thicker than specified in the plans (1 1/4 inches) to allow me to use a thicker spline.

Here is what the footrail looks like after the glueup. You can see where the walnut splines stick through the dado cut in each end of the 8 segments, each angled at 22 1/2 degrees. I made the ring and legs thicker than specified in the plans (1 1/4 inches) to allow me to use a thicker spline.

Here is the Hub with the walnut splines already glued in. The Hub is 4 inch x 4 inch - made of laminated red oak. The hole through the middle was drilled before cutting the dados for the splines. I drilled the hole from the top all the way through to ensure that any drift wouldn't adversely affect the two part screw mechanism. Being as careful as I could (checking square on the drill press table), I still ended up with about 1/8 inch of drift from top to bottom. That would have been too great an error if I had tried to drill from each side and meet in the middle.

Here is the Hub with the walnut splines already glued in. The Hub is 4 inch x 4 inch – made of laminated red oak. The hole through the middle was drilled before cutting the dados for the splines. I drilled the hole from the top all the way through to ensure that any drift wouldn’t adversely affect the two part screw mechanism. Being as careful as I could (checking square on the drill press table), I still ended up with about 1/8 inch of drift from top to bottom. That would have been too great an error if I had tried to drill from each side and meet in the middle.

I made the seat thicker than specified - 1-1/4 instead of 1 inch. Since it would be dished out in the center I wanted a little extra thickness for attachment to the top of the screw plate. I also didn't glue up a square but rather figured the lengths I would need to extend just past the perimeter of a 14 inch circle.

I made the seat thicker than specified – 1-1/4 instead of 1 inch. Since it would be dished out in the center I wanted a little extra thickness for attachment to the top of the screw plate. I also didn’t glue up a square but rather figured the lengths I would need to extend just past the perimeter of a 14 inch circle.

The plans called for making plywood 12 inch plywood rings and then attach veneer to the face of the plywood. Rather than do that, I just used leftover 5/4 oak scraps to construct a beefier version with a square center large enough to accommodate the seat plate on the top of the screw mechanism.

The plans called for making plywood 12 inch plywood rings and then attach veneer to the face of the plywood. Rather than do that, I just used leftover 5/4 oak scraps to construct a beefier version with a square center large enough to accommodate the seat plate on the top of the screw mechanism.

I then used my bandsaw circle cutting jig to cut the circles in the seat and sub-ring. I made a square hub that fit inside the sub-ring and the foot rest ring to allow the hollow rings to pivot on the center pin on the jig.

I then used my bandsaw circle cutting jig to cut the circles in the seat and sub-ring. I made a square hub that fit inside the sub-ring and the foot rest ring to allow the hollow rings to pivot on the jig.

I just my router table with a 1/2" round-over bit to shape the outside edges of the legs and to give the footrest ring its final shape. I finish sanded to 220 grit.

I just my router table with a 1/2″ round-over bit to shape the outside edges of the legs and to give the footrest ring its final shape. I finish sanded to 220 grit.

With the base pieces all sanded, I did some assembly. Applying glue to the dados in the legs, and clamping the footrest ring to the mating half round drilled to accept it in the leg. After the glue set up, I used the pilot holes pre-drilled in the legs to drill through the foot-ring and installed 1/4 inch carriage bolts. I had a bit of trouble during assembly with the glue setting up quickly on the Hub splines. If I do it again, I will glue each leg in 4 separate operations. Allowing an hour of dry time between. I would clamp the leg to be glued in the vise and set the hub spline into the dado. Then use a shaped clamping caul that allows a bar clamp to exert adequate force to hold the joint together.

With the base pieces all sanded, I did some assembly. Applying glue to the dados in the legs, and clamping the footrest ring to the mating half round drilled to accept it in the leg. After the glue set up, I used the pilot holes pre-drilled in the legs to drill through the foot-ring and installed 1/4 inch carriage bolts. I had a bit of trouble during assembly with the glue setting up quickly on the Hub splines. If I do it again, I will glue each leg in 4 separate operations. Allowing an hour of dry time between. I would clamp the leg to be glued in the vise and set the hub spline into the dado. Then use a shaped clamping caul that allows a bar clamp to exert adequate force to hold the joint together.

Next it was time to do the seat sculpting. I used my portable circular saw to cut 1/4 inch deep kerfs in the center of the seat. Always aligning the blade to run through the center of seat, and keeps the rear and front edge of blade at least four inches from the perimeter of the seat. This gave me a depth gauge to go by when using a sweep gouge and mallet to remove the majority of the material. My orbital sander with 60 grit paper removed the gouge marks quickly. I then sanded with 80, 120, and 220 grit discs.

Next it was time to do the seat sculpting. I used my portable circular saw to cut 1/4 inch deep kerfs in the center of the seat. Always aligning the blade to run through the center of seat, and keeps the rear and front edge of blade at least four inches from the perimeter of the seat. This gave me a depth gauge to go by when using a sweep gouge and mallet to remove the majority of the material. My orbital sander with 60 grit paper removed the gouge marks quickly. I then sanded with 80, 120, and 220 grit discs.

I then applied Watco Danish Oil Finish. I find that the fruitwood shade really brings out the red hues in oak and doesn't affect the walnut color at all.

I then applied Watco Danish Oil Finish. I find that the fruitwood shade really brings out the red hues in oak and doesn’t affect the walnut color at all.

Now I just need to attach the steel nut flange to hub, and the screw base to the bottom of the seat. The stool has an adjustable height from 24 to 30 inches.

Now I just needed to attach the steel nut flange to hub, and the screw base to the bottom of the seat. The stool has an adjustable height from 24 to 30 inches.