Little Nipper Wash Stool

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This is the third one of these I have made. What can I say? The grand-kids just keep coming!
This is the third one of these I have made. What can I say? The grand-kids just keep coming!
Start with the sides. I used premium 1x12 pine for this project. Cut the two sides 22 inches long. I used a large compass to layout the the top radius and a 1 quart paint can for the bottom radius between the legs. A band-saw was used to cut the outside curves, but a jig or sabre saw would work fine as well. For the bottom half circle, I made a series of cuts up from the bottom just short of the layout line about 1/2 inch apart. This allowed the waste to fall away as I cut on the waste side of the line with a wide blade. For the top hand hold I used a 1-1/2 inch forstner bit at each end and then a sabre saw for the upper and lower joining cuts. A belt sander was used to smooth the upper outside radius, and spindle sanders cleaned up the lower inside radius and the upper handhold. I used a 1/8 inch round-over bit on all edges.
Start with the sides. I used premium 1×12 pine for this project. Cut the two sides 22 inches long.
I used a large compass to layout the the top radius and a 1 quart paint can for the bottom radius between the legs.
A band-saw was used to cut the outside curves, but a jig or sabre saw would work fine as well. For the bottom half circle, I made a series of cuts up from the bottom just short of the layout line about 1/2 inch apart. This allowed the waste to fall away as I cut on the waste side of the line with a wide blade.
For the top hand hold I used a 1-1/2 inch forstner bit at each end and then a sabre saw for the upper and lower joining cuts.
A belt sander was used to smooth the upper outside radius, and spindle sanders cleaned up the lower inside radius and the upper handhold.
I used a 1/8 inch round-over bit on all edges.
The steps were cut 14-1/2 inches long from the same stock used to make the sides, and then the lower narrow step was ripped 4-1/2 inches wide, the remaining piece served as the wider upper step. These are jointed to the sides with dado and tenon joints. A 5/8 inch router bit was used to cut the stopped dado in the sides. Two passes were made, one at 3/16 and the other at 3/8 inch deep. A chisel was used to square it up. About 1/16 inch of material was removed from the end of each step to make the tenon. Take the time to make small fence adjustments and sneak up on a snug fit.
The steps were cut 14-1/2 inches long from the same stock used to make the sides, and then the lower narrow step was ripped 4-1/2 inches wide, the remaining piece served as the wider upper step. These are jointed to the sides with dado and tenon joints.
A 5/8 inch router bit was used to cut the stopped dado in the sides. Two passes were made, one at 3/16 and the other at 3/8 inch deep. A chisel was used to square it up.
About 1/16 inch of material was removed from the end of each step to make the tenon. Take the time to make small fence adjustments and sneak up on a snug fit.
Before doing the glue-up, I sanded the inside faces of the pieces. The joints were first glued, then clamped, and finally fastened with a 16 gauge finish nailer. I marked the centers of the joints on the outside to accurately position the nailer. I left the clamps on over night.
Before doing the glue-up, I sanded the inside faces of the pieces.
The joints were first glued, then clamped, and finally fastened with a 16 gauge finish nailer. I marked the centers of the joints on the outside to accurately position the nailer. I left the clamps on over night.
Make sure to check that it sets flat before finishing. I use the top of my table saw for a flat surface. My block plane was used to make small adjustments on the feet.
I used a semi-glass polyurethane to finish the stool. I did a light sand between each coat.

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