Author Archives: Stephen

Kitchen Table for Zeek

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We started with the pedestal for the table. It had to be sturdy to support the 7 foot long top. The two pedestals are made from 2x8 southern yellow pine construction lumber. The center upright consists of three pieces with a gap in the center to allow a stretcher to be inserted.

We started with the pedestal for the table. It had to be sturdy to support the 7 foot long, 4 foot wide top. The two pedestals are made from southern yellow pine construction lumber. The center uprights are 2×6 consisting of three pieces with a gap in the center to allow a stretcher to be inserted. The base is made from 3 layers of 2x8s. The center runs the full length, the bottom layer has two pieces that act as outboard feet, and the top layer has two pieces spaced to allow the center upright to be placed between them. All pieces were glued. Screws were placed where they could not be seen – at the very top and bottom where they are hidden by the dados the central upright fit into, and from the bottom.

Three quarter inch depth dados were cut with a circular saw to allow additional uprights to be positioned above the base feet. The 2x8 uprights provided additional support for the heavy top.

Three quarter inch depth dados were cut with a circular saw to allow vertical uprights to be positioned above the base feet. The additional 2×8 uprights provided more outboard support for the heavy top. Small pieces of 2x material were fitted and glued to fill in the space left between the 2×6 center upright, and the 2×8 base. At the very top of the vertical uprights, two more layers of 2×8 were laminated to provide a horizontal support for the top. They were constructed like the base without the outboard feet.

The top was also made from 2x southern yellow pine. A combination of 2x10 and 2x8 stock was carefully selected at the lumber yard for straight edges and no twist. We sifted through their entire stock to find enough true planks. We re-stacked everything neatly so we would be welcomed back.

The top was also made from 2x southern yellow pine. A combination of 2×10 and 2×8 stock was carefully selected at the lumber yard for straight edges and no twist. We sifted through their entire stock to find enough true planks. This was a critical endeavor, since all joining was to be done with hand planes. We re-stacked everything neatly so we would be welcomed back. Two boards were edge jointed at a time. Five 3/8″ dowels were placed along the length of each joint using a dowel centering jig. After gluing, pipe clamps held the boards overnight before two additional boards were prepared for each side of the growing top.

The top was planed between glue-ups to keep the top as flat as possible. Even 3/4 inch pipe will bow under the pressure exerted by the clamps. The flatter the top, the better chance the boards being added would stay flat as well.

The top was planed between glue-ups to keep the top as flat as possible. Even 3/4 inch pipe will bow under the pressure exerted by the clamps. The flatter the top, the better chance the boards being added would stay flat as well.

After all the boards for the top were added, we trimmed the length down to 7 feet (we used 8 foot boards). Then we used a thin batten to create a smooth curve to reduce the width at each end by 4 inches (2 inches removed from each side). We used a jig saw to cut the curve, and then began the process of sanding the top smooth and level.

After all the boards for the top were added, we trimmed the length down to 7 feet (we used 8 foot boards). Then we used a thin batten to create a smooth curve to reduce the width at each end by 4 inches (2 inches removed from each side). We used a jig saw to cut the curve, and then began the process of sanding the top smooth and level. Knot holes were stabilized by filling with clear epoxy. A wood conditioner was applied to the pine before staining to get a more uniform color. Five coats of polyurethane was applied, with a light sand between each coat.

To complement the table, a bench was constructed for one side. Two pedestals were made similar to those used for the table but not quite as robust. They were also made of southern yellow pine.

To complement the table, a bench was constructed for one side. Two pedestals were made similar to those used for the table but not quite as robust. They were also made of southern yellow pine.

The top of the bench was made by edge joining two 2x8. This was done to give enough width to allow the bench top to be curved like the table top.

The top of the bench was made by edge joining two 2×8. This was done to give enough width to allow the bench top to be curved like the table top.

A stretcher was added beneath the bench top, and then the it was stained to match the table and three coats of polyurethane were applied for durability.

A stretcher was added beneath the bench top, and then the it was stained to match the table and three coats of polyurethane were applied for durability.

Stain and polyurethane applied. You can also see the peg that secures the stretcher through the center pedestal upright.

Stain and polyurethane applied. You can also see the peg that secures the stretcher through the table’s pedestal.

Nightstands for Zack

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These nightstands were made to compliment the woven headboard Zack and I made (see Woven Headboard).

These nightstands were made to compliment the woven headboard Zack and I made (see Woven Headboard). Notice the drawer fronts.

I like to start on the most critical part first. For this project it is the legs. I first made a full size template of the leg and annotated it with all critical dimensions. This will come in handy when we make the third part of the set - blanket chest at the foot of the bed.

I like to start on the most critical part first. For this project it is the legs. I first made a full size template of the leg and annotated it with all critical dimensions. This will come in handy when we make the third part of the set – blanket chest at the foot of the bed.

Multiple legs were laid out at one time on 8/4 oak to reduce waste due to the curved foot. Zack cut them out on the bandsaw and the belt sander was used to give them their final shape.

Multiple legs were laid out at one time on 8/4 oak to reduce waste due to the curved foot. Zack cut them out on the bandsaw and the belt sander was used to give them their final shape.

The drill press with 3/8 inch forstner bit was used to remove the majority of the waste in the leg mortises. These were then cleaned up with a straight bit on the router table. Finally the top and bottom of each mortise was squared up with a chisel.

The drill press with 3/8 inch forstner bit was used to remove the majority of the waste in the leg mortises. These were then cleaned up with a straight bit on the router table. Finally the top and bottom of each mortise was squared up with a chisel.

All frame parts were made from red oak. Rear, front, side and bottom stretchers tenons were all cut with the same table saw fence setup.

All frame parts were made of oak. Rear, front, side and bottom stretchers tenons were all cut with the same table saw fence setup.

The frame part faces were then rough sanded on the belt sander and finish sanded to 220 grit with an orbital sander.

The frame part faces were then rough sanded on the belt sander and finish sanded to 220 grit with an orbital sander.

The bottom of the nightstand was made from 3/8 inch thick oak re-sawn from 4/4 stock and planed to size. They fit into a 3/8 inch wide dado in the side stretchers. They were sized to fit loosely to allow for expansion across the grain. Foam rubber insulation was tucked into the dado at each end of the stretcher to keep them from rattling and still allow for wood movement.

The bottom of the nightstand was made from 3/8 thick oak re-sawn from 4/4 stock and planed to size. They fit into a 3/8 dado in the side stretchers. They were sized to fit loosely to allow for expansion across the grain. Foam rubber insulation was tucked into the dado at each end of the stretcher to keep them from rattling and still allow for wood movement. The slats were pre-stained to ensure that adjoining edges received stain.

The front and backs were first glued up and allowed to harden overnight. Then the completed front and back were connected with the side parts and the bottom slats put in place.

The front and backs were first glued up and allowed to harden overnight. Then the completed front and back were connected with the side parts and the bottom slats put in place.

Pipe clamps were used to pull all the joints tightly together. Glue was used sparingly on the tenon faces and the mortises were cut slightly deep to allow space for excess glue.

Pipe clamps were used to pull all the joints tightly together. Glue was used sparingly on the tenon faces and the mortises were cut slightly deep to allow space for excess glue.

All visible surfaces were stained with minwax red oak to match the previously finished woven headboard. Stain was applied with a brush, then wiped off after 15 minutes.

All visible surfaces were stained with minwax red oak to match the previously finished woven headboard. Stain was applied with a brush, then wiped off after 15 minutes.

The most time consuming part of the project was building the drawer fronts. First the 1/2 inch thick drawer faces were laid out with a weave pattern to locate the location of the through holes which were drilled with a 1/2 inch forstner bit.

The most time consuming part of the project was building the drawer fronts. First the 1/2 inch thick drawer faces were laid out with a weave pattern to locate the location of the through holes which were drilled with a 1/2 inch forstner bit.

The scroll saw was used to make the rectangular through cuts.

The scroll saw was used to make the rectangular through cuts.

Chisels were used to carve the relief areas to simulate the weave pattern. Thin strips were actually woven the same size to provide a visual model for the front face of the drawer.

Chisels were used to carve the relief areas to simulate the weave pattern. Thin strips were actually woven the same size to provide a visual model for the front face of the drawer.

The drawer was sized for two fronts, a blank front and the carved front. With the blank front portion of the drawer inserted into the drawer opening, the carved front was glued to the blank front to ensure an exact fit within the drawer opening. The top drawer rails are visible in this photo. They keep the drawer from tipping when it is slid out. The bottom drawer rails were made similarly. Both were glued to the sides of the frame. Screws were also used on the top rails since the top was attached to them from underneath.

The drawer was sized for two fronts, a blank front and the carved front. With the blank front portion of the drawer inserted into the drawer opening, the carved front was glued to the blank front to ensure an exact fit within the drawer opening. The top drawer rails are visible in this photo. They keep the drawer from tipping when it is slid out. The bottom drawer rails were made similarly. Both were glued to the sides of the frame. Screws were also used on the top rails since the top was attached to them from underneath.

Here are the two nightstands with the tops attached. The two screws at the rear of the nightstand fit though slots in the top drawer rails. This allows for wood movement across the grain. Oak is an open grained wood. Five coats of polyurethane were applied, then aggressively sanded. This brought surface almost level, since the open grain portion of the top was below the closed grain portion. Another three coats were applied, then another aggressive sand. A final coat was applied and orbital sanded with a 1800 grit pad. This left a glass smooth water-proof finish.

Here are the two nightstands with the tops attached. The two screws at the rear of the nightstand fit though slots in the top drawer rails. This allows for wood movement across the grain. Oak is an open grained wood. Five coats of polyurethane were applied to the top, then aggressively sanded. This brought the top surface almost level, since the open grain portion of the top was below the closed grain portion. Another three coats were applied, then another aggressive sand. A final coat was applied and orbital sanded with a 1800 grit pad. This produced a glass smooth water-proof finish.