Scraper Shaves

ShopNotes Issue 112 had an article on making Scraper Shaves. This is basically a spokeshave style body in which custom scrapers made from a card file are mounted. I didn't own a spokeshave and had wanted to try them out so this seemed like a good opportunity.  Here you can see the finished product making paper thin shavings on a piece of red oak. I used persimmon (only tree found in America in the ebony family) for the body and cocobollo for the toe plate. I used brass hardware to hold the blade in place.

ShopNotes Issue 112 had an article on making Scraper Shaves. This is basically a spokeshave style body in which custom scrapers made from a card file are mounted. I didn’t own a spokeshave and had wanted to try them out so this seemed like a good opportunity.
Here you can see the finished product making paper thin shavings on a piece of red oak. I used persimmon (only tree found in America in the ebony family) for the body and cocobollo for the toe plate. Hard maple would be a good choice for the body. I used brass hardware to hold the blade in place.

Here is an exploded view of the parts. The blades are made from a 2 inch wide card scraper. A line is scored across the card and when it is bent sharply in a vise it will snap off. See the article for the details.

Here is an exploded view of the parts. The blades are made from a 2 inch wide card scraper. A line is scored across the card and when it is bent sharply in a vise it will snap off. See the article for the details.

Here are the four I made. Two have flat blades - I use these the most. One has a 5/8 inch radius profile and the other a 1-1/2 inch radius profile.  They also showed a V-notch profile, but I figured I could just tip my block plane at a 45 degree angle and get the same effect.

Here are the four I made. Two have flat blades – I use these the most. One has a 5/8 inch radius profile and the other a 1-1/2 inch radius profile. They also showed a V-notch profile, but I figured I could just tip my block plane at a 45 degree angle and get the same effect.

I sharpen the flat blades on my WorkSharp at 45 degrees. You could also burnish a hook as is done on a traditional card scraper. The radius cutters were made by holding the blade at an angle against a spindle sander. I use these quite a lot. There an epoxy fill over knots was quickly worked down flush. The handles give excellent control over the tool, and is much less likely to cause gouges in a laminated top when flushing out applied hardwood trim on end grain.

I sharpen the flat blades on my WorkSharp at 45 degrees. You could also burnish a hook as is done on a traditional card scraper. The radius cutters were made by holding the blade at an angle against a spindle sander.
I use these quite a bit. Here an epoxy fill over knots was quickly worked down flush. The handles give excellent control over the tool, and it is much less likely to cause gouges in a laminated top when flushing out applied hardwood trim on end grain than if a block plane or sander is used.

File Handles

Live Oak Branch

Live Oak Branch trimmed to length and mounted between centers

Initial Shaping

Initial Shaping using shallow gouge

Final Shaping

Final Shaping using gouge

 parting tool

defining the ferrule with parting tool

inflection point

Defining the inflection point with the parting tool

shape front half

Using round nose scraper to shape front half

taper rear of handle

Using round nose scraper to taper rear of handle

Rough sanding

Rough sanding after removing tool rest

Fine Sanding

Fine Sanding with 220 grit paper. Note vacuum hose to capture fine dust.

Apply tung oil

Apply tung oil with q-tip while spinning

Wax

Apply hard carnuba wax while turning

Buffing

Buffing with an old sock while turning.

Buff2.

Considerable pressure used while buffing causes the hard wax to melt and form a very tough protective finish.

Done

Two finished handles, ready to be cut apart on the band saw.