Monthly Archives: May 2013

Souped Up Dust Collector

Posted on by
4
I waited a long time (read years) to get a dust collector. I was hoping the cyclones would fall dramatically in price. But then never did. At Christmas, I finally bit the bullet and got this 2HP single stage unit from Harbor Freight, knowing full well that I would "fix it up". I picked it because it is cheap (list price is $249, but you can find $100 off coupons in any woodworking magazine), it also looks identical to the Rixon model sold by Woodcraft for $399.

I waited a long time (read years) to get a dust collector. I was hoping the cyclones would fall dramatically in price. But then never did. At Christmas, I finally bit the bullet and got this 2HP single stage unit from Harbor Freight, knowing full well that I would “fix it up”. I picked it because it is cheap (list price is $249, but you can find $100 off coupons in any woodworking magazine), it also looks identical to the Rixon model sold by Woodcraft for $399.

The first thing I did was turn it into a two stage dust collector by connecting a trash can separator to it. I already had the Woodcraft trash can separator lid which I had used with my 13 inch planer. Planers produce a tremendous amount of chips, and the trash can is an efficient way to capture them. As I mentioned in my dust collection post, the trash can separator not only provides an easier way to deal with sawdust, but it is also provides a measure of safety by not allowing big chunks of wood or metal pieces from floor sweepings from impacting the dust collector impeller and causing damage or sparks which would be catastrophic with fine dust.

The first thing I did was turn it into a two stage dust collector by connecting a trash can separator to it. I already had the Woodcraft trash can separator lid which I had used with my 13 inch planer. Planers produce a tremendous amount of chips, and the trash can is an efficient way to capture them. As I mentioned in my dust collection post, the trash can separator not only provides an easier way to deal with sawdust, but it is also provides a measure of safety by not allowing big chunks of wood or metal pieces from floor sweepings from impacting the dust collector impeller and causing damage or sparks which would be catastrophic with fine dust.

Finewoodworking published an article entitled "Soup Up Your Dust Collector" in issue #232. Seems I wasn't the only one with the idea of improving on a cheap model. Thankfully, their article saved me a lot of legwork. The first thing I did was to order a Wynn C-1425 0.5 micron canister filter to replace the 5 micron felt bag that came with the Harbor Freight model I had. Notice the 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch rubberized seal on the bottom of the canister in the picture.

Finewoodworking published an article entitled “Soup Up Your Dust Collector” in issue #232. Seems I wasn’t the only one with the idea of improving on a cheap model. Thankfully, their article saved me a lot of legwork. The first thing I did was to order a Wynn C-1425 0.5 micron canister filter to replace the 5 micron felt bag that came with the Harbor Freight model I had. Notice the 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch rubberized seal on the bottom of the canister in the picture.

The first order of business was to come up with a way to mount the canister in place of the felt bag. I went about this differently than in the Finewoodworking article. I made a plywood ring that fit snugly inside the body of the dust collector body. Three partial rings attached to the underside of the top ring sat down on the dust collection sheet metal cone and space the assembly flush with the top of the dust collection housing. I ran three screws in through the sides to hold it in place, then used siliconized caulk to seal around the top edge. After letting it cure overnight, I turned it upside down and poured bondo along the inside perimeter to give me a permanent seal.

The first order of business was to come up with a way to mount the canister in place of the felt bag. I went about this differently than in the Finewoodworking article. I made a plywood ring that fit snugly inside the body of the dust collector body. Three partial rings attached to the underside of the top ring sat down on the dust collection sheet metal cone and space the assembly flush with the top of the dust collection housing. I ran three screws in through the sides to hold it in place, then used siliconized caulk to seal around the top edge. After letting it cure overnight, I turned it upside down and poured bondo along the inside perimeter to give me a permanent seal.

Next I added a Thein baffle (see jpthein.com or the Finewoodworking article) below the underside of the cone in the dust collection housing. The Thein baffle isolates the sawdust in the bag below from the filter above to keep the filter pleats from plugging with fine sawdust. You can see the Thein baffle mounted below the cone in this picture. You can also see the latches I have mounted to the side of the housing. These engage the steel lip on the bottom of the canister filter and hold it securely. I obtained them from J.W.Winco Inc (www.jwwinco.com): part number 50ENEK.

Next I added a Thein baffle (see jpthein.com or the Finewoodworking article) below the underside of the cone in the dust collection housing. The Thein baffle isolates the sawdust in the bag below from the filter above to keep the filter pleats from plugging with fine sawdust.
You can see the Thein baffle mounted below the cone in this picture. You can also see the latches I have mounted to the side of the housing. These engage the steel lip on the bottom of the canister filter and hold it securely. I obtained them from J.W.Winco Inc (www.jwwinco.com): part number 50ENEK.

After perusing J.P.Thein's website, I decided to replace my Woodcraft trash separator lid with one of his design for two reasons: 1) I didn't feel I was getting a good seal, and 2) I know from experience that as the trash can continued to fill up, more sawdust would start spewing out the outlet port. To make mine I followed his basic instructions, but made the top circle bigger too allow an outside lip to be added, so that the lip of the trash can was captured between an inside and outside ring. I put 3/8 inch adhesive foam insulation in this grove to make a tighter seal. You may wonder why I needed two Thein baffles, one in the trash can and the other in the dust collector. The reason is that my dust collector has two 4 inch ports. I dedicate one to my SawStop (thus the baffle in the dust collector), and the other to my other stationary tools via the trash can separator.

After perusing J.P.Thein’s website, I decided to replace my Woodcraft trash separator lid with one of his design for two reasons: 1) I didn’t feel I was getting a good seal, and 2) I know from experience that as the trash can continued to fill up, more sawdust would start spewing out the outlet port.
To make mine I followed his basic instructions, but made the top circle bigger too allow an outside lip to be added, so that the lip of the trash can was captured between an inside and outside ring. I put 3/8 inch adhesive foam insulation in this grove to make a tighter seal.
You may wonder why I needed two Thein baffles, one in the trash can and the other in the dust collector. The reason is that my dust collector has two 4 inch ports. I dedicate one to my SawStop (thus the baffle in the dust collector), and the other to my other stationary tools via the trash can separator.

Here you can see the canister mounted on the Dust collector, and new Thein baffle lid on the trash can separator.

Here you can see the canister mounted on the Dust collector, and new Thein baffle lid on the trash can separator.

Shop Dust Collection

Posted on by
5
For years, the only dust collection I did was with my Shop Vacuum. I hooked the hose up to the dust ports on my sanders. Effective dust collection was nearly impossible with my Shopsmith, so I used a dust mask when sawing, jointing or using the bandsaw or lathe.

For years, the only dust collection I did was with my Shop Vacuum. I hooked the hose up to the dust ports on my sanders. Effective dust collection was nearly impossible with my Shopsmith, so I used a dust mask when sawing, jointing or using the bandsaw or lathe.

I made a foot switch to make it easier to turn my shop vacuum on and off with. The shop vac plugs into the switch half of the outlet. Two push toggle switch wired in parallel (to handle the current) break the hot line. The spring keeps the petal against the top of the switches. Notice the area chiseled out on the under side of the petal to all it to set down squarely on the top of the switches.

I made a foot switch to make it easier to turn my shop vacuum on and off with. The shop vac plugs into the switched half of the outlet. Two push toggle switch wired in parallel (to handle the current) break the hot line. The spring keeps the petal tight against the top of the switches. Notice the area chiseled out on the under side of the petal to allow it to set down squarely on the top of the switches.

My next step up was to hang a Jet Air Filtration unit from the ceiling. This pulled the fine air-borne dust out of the air when I was using tools that made fine dust - chief among them the table saw. I still had to wear a dust mask, but I could take it off after the shop air made its way through the filter - about 20 minutes on the high fan speed.

My next step up was to hang a Jet Air Filtration unit from the ceiling. This pulled the fine air-borne dust out of the air when I was using tools that made fine dust – chief among them the table saw. I still had to wear a dust mask, but I could take it off after the shop air made its way through the filter – about 20 minutes on the high fan speed.

My next leap forward was to get a Dust Deputy cyclone. The cyclone separated 95+ percent of the sawdust and collects it in a 5 gallon pail. The Shop Vacuum filter stays amazingly clean. I shake it out about twice a year instead of once a week. Almost no dust makes it into the Shop Vacuum collection canister. I always have plenty of suction.

My next leap forward was to get a Dust Deputy cyclone. The cyclone separated 95+ percent of the sawdust and collects it in a 5 gallon pail. The Shop Vacuum filter stays amazingly clean. I shake it out about twice a year instead of once a week. Almost no dust makes it into the Shop Vac collection canister. I always have plenty of suction.

A few months ago I got a SawStop cabinet saw for Christmas. I now had a table saw I could do effective dust collection with. So I purchased the Harbor Freight 2 HP single stage dust collector. To increase its effectiveness I bought a trash can separator lid from Woodcraft along with a standard 32 gallon metal trash can to turn it into a two stage system. I have not had to empty the dust collector's plastic bag yet. Here you can see it hooked up to the 2 inch floor sweep that that came with my Shop Vacuum. Another big plus of using the trash can separator is that any metal and big chunks of debris that is sucked up stays in the trash can and does not make its way through the impeller on the dust collector.

A few months ago I got a SawStop cabinet saw for Christmas. I now had a table saw I could do effective dust collection with. So I purchased the Harbor Freight 2 HP single stage dust collector. To increase its effectiveness I bought a trash can separator lid from Woodcraft along with a standard 32 gallon metal trash can to turn it into a two stage system. I haven’t had to empty the dust collector’s plastic bag yet. Here you can see it hooked up to the 2 inch floor sweep that that came with my Shop Vacuum. Another big plus of using the trash can separator is that any metal and big chunks of debris that is sucked up stays in the trash can and does not make its way through the impeller on the dust collector.

The biggest challenge I faced was getting all of the dust collection pieces to fit together. My dust collector has a 5 inch inlet. It also came with a Wye with two 4 inch ports. I dedicate one port to the SawStop, and the other to the trash can separator. In order to use standard 4 inch blast gates I found that 4 inch PVC electrical conduit sections worked well as couplers. The little play that existed was made up with a few wraps of duct tape.

The biggest challenge I faced was getting all of the dust collection pieces to fit together. My dust collector has a 5 inch inlet. It also came with a Wye with two 4 inch ports. I dedicate one port to the SawStop, and the other to the trash can separator. In order to use standard 4 inch blast gates I found that 4 inch PVC electrical conduit sections worked well as couplers. The little play that existed was made up with a few wraps of duct tape.

I have added a wye connection to my SawStop dust collection port to allow a 2-1/4 inch hose to be run up to the dust collection port on the blade guard. When not in use, a plug is inserted into the small wye inlet.

I have added a wye connection to my SawStop dust collection port to allow a 2-1/4 inch hose to be run up to the dust collection port on the blade guard. When not in use, a plug is inserted into the small wye inlet.

Even tougher is finding reducers that will fit into the dust ports on particular tools. I found that in many cases using a standard 4 inch to 2-1/4 inch reducer would not work by itself. The OD of 1-1/2 inch thick wall PVC will fit inside the 2-1/2 adapter. I would then build up the outside the PVC with nylon tape coated with epoxy to get the exact size I needed for a particular tool.

Even tougher is finding reducers that will fit into the dust ports on particular tools. I found that in many cases using a standard 4 inch to 2-1/4 inch reducer would not work by itself. The OD of 1-1/2 inch thick wall PVC will fit inside the 2-1/2 adapter. I would then build up the outside the PVC with nylon tape coated with epoxy to get the exact size I needed for a particular tool.

Here is an adapter I made for my Dewalt Orbital sander so I can use it with my standard Shop Vacuum hose. It is held into the sander with two strips of tire inner tube stretched over screw heads.

Here’s an adapter I made for my Dewalt Orbital sander so I can use it with my standard Shop Vacuum hose. It is held into the sander with two strips of tire inner tube stretched over screw heads.

A standard 2-1/2 to 4 inch reducer allows the dust collector to be attached to the bandsaw. Dust collection is vastly improved when the reduction is done right at the machine.

A standard 2-1/2 to 4 inch reducer allows the dust collector to be attached to the bandsaw. Dust collection is vastly improved when the reduction is done right at the machine.

An adjustable collar to hold a 1-1/4 Shop Vacuum hose provides chip collection on the Drill Press.

An adjustable collar to hold a 1-1/4 Shop Vacuum hose provides chip collection on the Drill Press.

The hardest tool to capture sawdust from is my miter saw. I made a dust hood out of 5mm plywood and mounted a mini collection hood on the side. This is a work in progress, as I am currently only capturing about 70% of the dust. I am toying with some ideas to enclose more of the front area while still leaving space for my arm to operate the saw and retain adequate visibility.

The hardest tool to capture sawdust from is my miter saw. I made a dust hood out of 5mm plywood and mounted a mini collection hood on the side. This is a work in progress, as I am currently only capturing about 70% of the dust. I am toying with some ideas to enclose more of the front area while still leaving space for my arm to operate the saw and retain adequate visibility.

Did a bit of work enclosing all the wide open spaces. I made sure that the saw can still be pivoted 45 degrees in either direction. The front enclosures on either side can be removed if need be. The improvement in the amount of sawdust captured is amazing!

Did a bit of work enclosing all the wide open spaces. I made sure that the saw can still be pivoted 45 degrees in either direction. The front enclosures on either side can be removed if need be. The improvement in the amount of sawdust captured is amazing!

I have done a bit of tweaking with various dust collection components. One of the ways I use to gauge a change to my setup is to measure the static pressure using a manometer. Mine is just a piece of plywood with clear tubing held in a "U" with romex staples and filled with food coloring dyed water. A piece of paper with lines spaced 1 inch apart provides a way to read the static pressure at a point in the system. Here I am measuring the static pressure at the input of my trash can separator. Since I know the static pressure at the input of my 5 inch duct on my dust collector, I can determine my static pressure loss due to the trash can separator, hose, blast gate, and Wye.

I have done a bit of tweaking with various dust collection components. One of the ways I use to gauge a change to my setup is to measure the static pressure using a manometer. Mine is just a piece of plywood with clear tubing held in a “U” with romex staples and filled with food coloring dyed water. A piece of paper with lines spaced 1 inch apart provides a way to read the static pressure at a point in the system. Here I am measuring the static pressure at the input of my trash can separator. Since I know the static pressure at the input of my 5 inch duct on my dust collector, I can determine my static pressure loss due to the trash can separator, hose, blast gate, and Wye.