Monthly Archives: September 2016

Kitchen Table for Bekah

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Bekah wanted a big country style table for her growing family. She saw something she liked on pinterest, and we modified the design to make it easier to build.

Bekah wanted a big country style table for her growing family. She saw something she liked on pinterest, and we modified the design to make it easier to build.

We started with the base, which is constructed from 4x4 cedar posts using half lap joinery.

We started with the base, which is constructed from 4×4 cedar posts using half lap joinery.

Half laps were cut using a circular saw to make repeated cuts 1/8 inch apart and then the bottoms were cleaned up with a chisel.

Half laps were cut using a circular saw to make repeated cuts 1/8 inch apart and then the bottoms were cleaned up with a chisel.

This shot shows how 45 degree 2x4 bracing was added to the base to provide enough structural strength to support the weight of the table top. The braces were glued and screwed to the 4x4 posts.

This shot shows how 45 degree 2×4 bracing was added to the base to provide enough structural strength to support the weight of the table top. The braces were glued and screwed to the 4×4 posts.

Here is the top made of 2x8 pine boards. Each board was jointed to its neighbor with a hand plane. A 2x4 on edge was glued around the perimeter of the top, to hide the leg structure below.

Here is the top made of 2×8 pine boards. Each board was jointed to its neighbor with a hand plane. A 2×4 on edge was glued around the perimeter of the top, to hide the leg structure below.

Here is the completed top, 7 foot long and 40 inches wide. Knots were filled with epoxy and then sanded flush.

Here is the completed top, 7 foot long and 40 inches wide. Knots were filled with epoxy and then sanded flush.

To secure the top to the base, 4 separate 3x4 areas were routed out to depth of 3/4 inch to accept a piece of oak that was placed in the removed material. A 3/8 inch t-nut was mounted in the oak board and it was glued and screwed in place.

To secure the top to the base, 4 separate 3×4 areas were routed out to depth of 3/4 inch to accept a piece of oak that was placed in the removed material. A 3/8 inch t-nut was mounted in the oak board and it was glued and screwed in place.

This shot shows the t-nut being pressed into the oak piece using a bench vise.

This shot shows the t-nut being pressed into the oak piece using a bench vise.

Here you can see the top being attached to the base with the 3/8 inch hex bolts.

Here you can see the top being attached to the base with the 3/8 inch hex bolts.

Here you can see how the bench bases are being attached to the top of the bench. The bench top was made of a 1x12 with 2x4 attached around the perimeter. Green-treat pads were attached at each end of the base cross-member to provide water resistance and some extra height to allow material to be removed for leveling.

Here you can see how the bench bases are being attached to the top of the bench. The bench top was made of a 1×12 with 2×4 attached around the perimeter. Green-treat pads were attached at each end of the base cross-member to provide water resistance and some extra height to allow material to be removed for leveling.

Here is the bench before finishing. Top surface was planed flat and then sanded with an orbital sander.

Here is the bench before finishing. Top surface was planed flat and then sanded with an orbital sander.

Here you can see that the legs on the bench are positioned they will fit between the table legs when it is pushed underneath. Bases were primed and then painted white. Tops were treated with a wood conditioner and then stained. Several coats of polyurethane were applied for durability.

Here you can see that the legs on the bench are positioned they will fit between the table legs when it is pushed underneath. Bases were primed and then painted white. Tops were treated with a wood conditioner and then stained. Several coats of polyurethane were applied for durability.

Headboard for Levi

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Daughters always find projects for Grandpa to do. This is the saga of a headboard for Levi. Originally she wanted to use reclaimed pallet lumber, but pulling the rusted spiral nails out of pallets yielded diminishing returns. So I decided to use a 5 foot by 3 foot piece of 1/2 plywood as a substrate and attach contrasting wood species in a herring bone pattern. I started by laying out the pattern with pencil and square on the sized plywood sheet.

Daughters always find projects for Grandpa to do. This is the saga of a headboard for Levi. Originally she wanted to use reclaimed pallet lumber, but pulling rusted spiral nails out of pallets yielded diminishing returns. So I decided to use a 5 foot by 3 foot piece of 1/2 plywood as a substrate and attach contrasting wood species in a herring bone pattern. I started by laying out the pattern with pencil and square on the sized plywood sheet. I decided to make the board widths 3-1/8 inch wide to maximize some old redwood siding pieces I got from Grandpa Jake.

I started with the oak strips toward the middle of the piece. I carefully positioned the pieces using framing squares and clamps. The first row had to be right, since all the other rows would be aligned next to it. I used lead ingots to hold the boards down, and drilled and screwed up from the back side to secure the glued boards in place.

I started with the oak boards toward the middle of the piece. I carefully positioned the pieces using framing squares and clamps. The first row had to be right, since all the other rows would be aligned next to it. I used lead ingots to hold the boards down, and drilled and screwed up from the bottom side to secure the glued boards in place.

Each row was stained before being attached because some boards received a different stain than their neighbors. I found that was easier to drill the two pilot holes from the top of the plywood sheet before placing the boards because it was easier to determine where to place them. The whole assembly was elevated above the work surface so I could then counter-sink the holes and drive the screws in from below.

Each row was stained before being attached because some boards received a different stain than their neighbors. I found that was easier to drill the two pilot holes from the top of the plywood sheet before placing the boards because it was easier to determine where to place them. The whole assembly was elevated above the work surface so I could then counter-sink the holes and drive the screws in from below.

Here we are just over half done. Notice that the adjacent rows are different thickness to give the pattern some depth. I used a 45 deg chamfer bit in the router table to give a consistent edge. It also hides inconsistencies if any of the boards were not perfectly flat.

Here we are just over half done. Notice that the adjacent rows are different thickness to give the pattern some depth. I used a 45 deg chamfer bit in the router table to give a consistent edge. It also hides inconsistencies if any of the boards were not perfectly flat.

All board pieces were cut a little long so they hung over the edge. Before adding the pieces on the other side of the beginning row, I trimmed all the boards on the just completed long side while I had the straight plywood edge on the other side to place against the table saw fence.

All board pieces were cut a little long so they hung over the edge. Before adding the pieces on the other side of the starting row, I trimmed all the boards on the just completed long side while I had the straight plywood edge on the other side to place against the table saw fence.

A 1-1/2 inch oak frame was added on the edges after completing the pattern. Glue was applied to the edges, then the oak boards were positioned to stand just a bit proud above the thickest boards in the herring bone pattern. Wood species used in the pattern were oak, western red cedar, white pine (stained grey), redwood, and aromatic cedar.

A 1-1/2 inch oak frame was added on the edges after completing the pattern. Glue was applied to the edges, then the oak boards were positioned to stand just a bit proud above the thickest boards in the herring bone pattern. Pipe clamps and brads were used to secure the trim until the glue dried overnight. Two coats of oil-based polyurethane were applied, with a light sand in-between coats. Wood species used in the pattern were oak, western red cedar, white pine (stained grey), redwood, and aromatic cedar.

Two 2x4 screwed on the back side of the headboard at each end to position the head board 2 feet above the floor. Two holes were drilled at the bottom of the 2x4 to attach them to the bed frame with 5/16 inch carriage bolts.

Two 2×4 screwed on the back side of the headboard at each end to position the head board 2 feet above the floor. Two holes were drilled at the bottom of the 2×4 to attach them to the bed frame with 5/16 inch carriage bolts.

Here you can see the colors a bit better.

Here you can see the colors a bit better.