Scraper Shaves

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ShopNotes Issue 112 had an article on making Scraper Shaves. This is basically a spokeshave style body in which custom scrapers made from a card file are mounted. I didn't own a spokeshave and had wanted to try them out so this seemed like a good opportunity. Here you can see the finished product making paper thin shavings on a piece of red oak. I used persimmon (only tree found in America in the ebony family) for the body and cocobollo for the toe plate. I used brass hardware to hold the blade in place.

ShopNotes Issue 112 had an article on making Scraper Shaves. This is basically a spokeshave style body in which custom scrapers made from a card file are mounted. I didn’t own a spokeshave and had wanted to try them out so this seemed like a good opportunity.
Here you can see the finished product making paper thin shavings on a piece of red oak. I used persimmon (only tree found in America in the ebony family) for the body and cocobollo for the toe plate. Hard maple would be a good choice for the body. I used brass hardware to hold the blade in place.

Here is an exploded view of the parts. The blades are made from a 2 inch wide card scraper. A line is scored across the card and when it is bent sharply in a vise it will snap off. See the article for the details.

Here is an exploded view of the parts. The blades are made from a 2 inch wide card scraper. A line is scored across the card and when it is bent sharply in a vise it will snap off. See the article for the details.

Here are the four I made. Two have flat blades - I use these the most. One has a 5/8 inch radius profile and the other a 1-1/2 inch radius profile. They also showed a V-notch profile, but I figured I could just tip my block plane at a 45 degree angle and get the same effect.

Here are the four I made. Two have flat blades – I use these the most. One has a 5/8 inch radius profile and the other a 1-1/2 inch radius profile. They also showed a V-notch profile, but I figured I could just tip my block plane at a 45 degree angle and get the same effect.

I sharpen the flat blades on my WorkSharp at 45 degrees. You could also burnish a hook as is done on a traditional card scraper. The radius cutters were made by holding the blade at an angle against a spindle sander. I use these quite a lot. There an epoxy fill over knots was quickly worked down flush. The handles give excellent control over the tool, and is much less likely to cause gouges in a laminated top when flushing out applied hardwood trim on end grain.

I sharpen the flat blades on my WorkSharp at 45 degrees. You could also burnish a hook as is done on a traditional card scraper. The radius cutters were made by holding the blade at an angle against a spindle sander.
I use these quite a bit. Here an epoxy fill over knots was quickly worked down flush. The handles give excellent control over the tool, and it is much less likely to cause gouges in a laminated top when flushing out applied hardwood trim on end grain than if a block plane or sander is used.

Window Shelf

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These window shelves are surprisingly easy to make. They dress up a window and give you place to put knick knacks. I have made 10 of them over the years.

These window shelves are surprisingly easy to make. They dress up a window and give you place to put knick knacks. I have made 10 of them over the years. The curtain rods for this one fit inside the side pieces.

On this one I saved the heart cutout from the side pieces and used them for the ends of an integral curtain rod.

On this one I saved the heart cutout from the side pieces and used them for the ends of an integral curtain rod.

This one uses a common closet pole to hang a quilt with.

This one uses a common closet pole to hang a quilt with.

My wife saw a picture in a craft magazine that she liked for the starting point. I laid out a 6 foot long piece of butcher paper, and starting drawing curves. I think I used dinner plates and jar lids to trace the different radii I used. Of course the layout must change depending on the width window you are making it for. I saved half of the top cutoff to use as a template for some of the others. I used a jig saw to cut the top curves (its pretty long to balance on a bandsaw table), and hearts in the back. For the side pieces I use a bandsaw for the outside and a scroll saw for the heart cutout. Here I am using an inflatable drum sander for the top curves. They cut much faster than solid rubber drum sanders. A spindle sander will also work well.

My wife saw a picture in a craft magazine that she liked for the starting point. I laid out a 6 foot long piece of butcher paper, and starting drawing curves. I think I used dinner plates and jar lids to trace the different radii I used. Of course the layout must change depending on the width window you are making it for. I saved half of the top cutoff to use as a template for some of the others.
I used a jig saw to cut the top curves (its pretty long to balance on a bandsaw table), and hearts in the back. For the side pieces I use a bandsaw for the outside and a scroll saw for the heart cutout.

Here I am using an inflatable drum sander for the top curves. They cut much faster than solid rubber drum sanders. A spindle sander will also work well.

Here I am using an inflatable drum sander for the top curves. They cut much faster than solid rubber drum sanders. A spindle sander will also work well.

I put the parts together with wood screws, their is really no need to use glue. All screws are covered with wood plugs. More on that later. I use a round-over in the router on all parts except for edges that will fit flat against the wall.

I put the parts together with wood screws, their is really no need to use glue. All screws are covered with wood plugs. More on that later. I use a round-over in the router on all parts except for edges that will fit flat against the wall.

Attach the back to the shelf first. Make sure you use clamps to hold the two pieces tight against one another when you drive the screws or the screws will actually hold the two pieces apart.

Attach the back to the shelf first. Make sure you use clamps to hold the two pieces tight against one another when you drive the screws or the screws will actually hold the two pieces apart.

Before attaching the sides, make sure the back and shelf are flush, sand or trim if need be. Next make sure the back and shelf are square before attaching the sides. I use Rockler Clamp-It assembly squares. Lots of clamps to hold everything securely.

Before attaching the sides, make sure the back and shelf are flush, sand or trim if need be. Next make sure the back and shelf are square before attaching the sides. I use Rockler Clamp-It assembly squares. Lots of clamps to hold everything securely.

Now you can pre-drill the holes into the back and shelf, and then run in the screws.

Now you can pre-drill the holes into the back and shelf, and then run in the screws. Note that the reference line on the side marks the top edge of the shelf so I know where to drill the holes.

You have a couple choices when plugging the holes over the screws. You could just cut off pieces of hardwood dowels. This will give you end grain which will be a lot darker than the surrounding wood - some people like that contrast, and even accentuate it by using a different wood species. Or you can save scraps from the cut offs and use a plug cutter to make plugs that exactly match. They are invisible is you take care to align the grain when you glue them in. Oh - by the way - I use 3/8 inch plugs.

You have a couple choices when plugging the holes over the screws. You could just cut off pieces of hardwood dowels. This will give you end grain which will be a lot darker than the surrounding wood – some people like that contrast, and even accentuate it by using a different wood species. Or you can save scraps from the cut offs and use a plug cutter to make plugs that exactly match. They are invisible is you take care to align the grain when you glue them in. Oh – by the way – I use 3/8 inch plugs.

And here we have it assembled. I usually use Watco Danish Oil Finish on mine. All mine have been made out of red oak, so I like to use the Watco Fruitwood shade to bring out the red in the oak. Or match the stain on the woodwork in your home. I usually don't drill any wall mounting holes till I know where it is going and can determine if I have a window header or wall studs to hang it from. If you keep the mounting holes within an inch of the top of the shelf they will be invisible to all but the very tallest of your guests.

And here we have it assembled. I usually use Watco Danish Oil Finish on mine. All mine have been made out of red oak, so I like to use the Watco Fruitwood shade to bring out the red in the oak. Or match the stain on the woodwork in your home.
I usually don’t drill any wall mounting holes till I know where it is going and can determine if I have a window header or wall studs to hang it from. If you keep the mounting holes within an inch of the top of the shelf they will be invisible to all but the very tallest of your guests.