Washer Dryer Pedestal

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Shop built washer / dryer pedestals with two drawers. Finished dimensions: 56 1/2 inch wide, 16 inches tall, 27 1/2 inches deep. This one built for Zeek.

The frame was made from 2×4 construction lumber with extra support in the center to help support the weight of the two machines.

Six 1-1/2 inch rubber feet were counter-sunk under the frame where the weight of the appliances would be concentrated – 2 on each end and 2 in the middle. They were secured with a 1/4 inch lag bolt.

Top, sides and front were made from melamine covered particle board to provide protection against spills. 1/4 inch oak trim was glued and pinned to the exposed particle board edges to enhance its appearance and to protect the particle board.

2×4’s were glued with epoxy and screwed to the inside faces of the melamine components to provide a secure method to attach them to the frame. This attachment method obviated the need for unsightly screws on the finished surfaces.

Rabbets were cut into an added center 2×4 to make a convenient place to mount the full extension slides.

Here you can see the front being attached to the fame. 2×2’s were glued and screwed to the inside of the front face, and after the epoxy dried overnight, were screwed to the frame using a right-angle attachment to the driver.

The drawer fronts were made from the waste cutouts from the front. The addition of the oak trim to the edges made them large enough to be used. They were sized to provide an 1/8 inch gap between the drawer front and all edges. We used pennies and dimes to elevate the bottom of the front and then stuck it to the drawer with double sided tape. This allowed the pilot holes to be drilled from the inside of the drawer into the back of the drawer front.

Anti-Vibration pads were placed under the feet that came with the appliances to protect the top surface of the pedestal and to provide vibration dampening.

Here is another one I built for my wife’s Laundry Room. I used oak pulls on the front of the drawers.

Kitchen Table for Bekah

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Bekah wanted a big country style table for her growing family. She saw something she liked on pinterest, and we modified the design to make it easier to build.

Bekah wanted a big country style table for her growing family. She saw something she liked on pinterest, and we modified the design to make it easier to build.

We started with the base, which is constructed from 4x4 cedar posts using half lap joinery.

We started with the base, which is constructed from 4×4 cedar posts using half lap joinery.

Half laps were cut using a circular saw to make repeated cuts 1/8 inch apart and then the bottoms were cleaned up with a chisel.

Half laps were cut using a circular saw to make repeated cuts 1/8 inch apart and then the bottoms were cleaned up with a chisel.

This shot shows how 45 degree 2x4 bracing was added to the base to provide enough structural strength to support the weight of the table top. The braces were glued and screwed to the 4x4 posts.

This shot shows how 45 degree 2×4 bracing was added to the base to provide enough structural strength to support the weight of the table top. The braces were glued and screwed to the 4×4 posts.

Here is the top made of 2x8 pine boards. Each board was jointed to its neighbor with a hand plane. A 2x4 on edge was glued around the perimeter of the top, to hide the leg structure below.

Here is the top made of 2×8 pine boards. Each board was jointed to its neighbor with a hand plane. A 2×4 on edge was glued around the perimeter of the top, to hide the leg structure below.

Here is the completed top, 7 foot long and 40 inches wide. Knots were filled with epoxy and then sanded flush.

Here is the completed top, 7 foot long and 40 inches wide. Knots were filled with epoxy and then sanded flush.

To secure the top to the base, 4 separate 3x4 areas were routed out to depth of 3/4 inch to accept a piece of oak that was placed in the removed material. A 3/8 inch t-nut was mounted in the oak board and it was glued and screwed in place.

To secure the top to the base, 4 separate 3×4 areas were routed out to depth of 3/4 inch to accept a piece of oak that was placed in the removed material. A 3/8 inch t-nut was mounted in the oak board and it was glued and screwed in place.

This shot shows the t-nut being pressed into the oak piece using a bench vise.

This shot shows the t-nut being pressed into the oak piece using a bench vise.

Here you can see the top being attached to the base with the 3/8 inch hex bolts.

Here you can see the top being attached to the base with the 3/8 inch hex bolts.

Here you can see how the bench bases are being attached to the top of the bench. The bench top was made of a 1x12 with 2x4 attached around the perimeter. Green-treat pads were attached at each end of the base cross-member to provide water resistance and some extra height to allow material to be removed for leveling.

Here you can see how the bench bases are being attached to the top of the bench. The bench top was made of a 1×12 with 2×4 attached around the perimeter. Green-treat pads were attached at each end of the base cross-member to provide water resistance and some extra height to allow material to be removed for leveling.

Here is the bench before finishing. Top surface was planed flat and then sanded with an orbital sander.

Here is the bench before finishing. Top surface was planed flat and then sanded with an orbital sander.

Here you can see that the legs on the bench are positioned they will fit between the table legs when it is pushed underneath. Bases were primed and then painted white. Tops were treated with a wood conditioner and then stained. Several coats of polyurethane were applied for durability.

Here you can see that the legs on the bench are positioned they will fit between the table legs when it is pushed underneath. Bases were primed and then painted white. Tops were treated with a wood conditioner and then stained. Several coats of polyurethane were applied for durability.