Headboard for Levi

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Daughters always find projects for Grandpa to do. This is the saga of a headboard for Levi. Originally she wanted to use reclaimed pallet lumber, but pulling the rusted spiral nails out of pallets yielded diminishing returns. So I decided to use a 5 foot by 3 foot piece of 1/2 plywood as a substrate and attach contrasting wood species in a herring bone pattern. I started by laying out the pattern with pencil and square on the sized plywood sheet.

Daughters always find projects for Grandpa to do. This is the saga of a headboard for Levi. Originally she wanted to use reclaimed pallet lumber, but pulling rusted spiral nails out of pallets yielded diminishing returns. So I decided to use a 5 foot by 3 foot piece of 1/2 plywood as a substrate and attach contrasting wood species in a herring bone pattern. I started by laying out the pattern with pencil and square on the sized plywood sheet. I decided to make the board widths 3-1/8 inch wide to maximize some old redwood siding pieces I got from Grandpa Jake.

I started with the oak strips toward the middle of the piece. I carefully positioned the pieces using framing squares and clamps. The first row had to be right, since all the other rows would be aligned next to it. I used lead ingots to hold the boards down, and drilled and screwed up from the back side to secure the glued boards in place.

I started with the oak boards toward the middle of the piece. I carefully positioned the pieces using framing squares and clamps. The first row had to be right, since all the other rows would be aligned next to it. I used lead ingots to hold the boards down, and drilled and screwed up from the bottom side to secure the glued boards in place.

Each row was stained before being attached because some boards received a different stain than their neighbors. I found that was easier to drill the two pilot holes from the top of the plywood sheet before placing the boards because it was easier to determine where to place them. The whole assembly was elevated above the work surface so I could then counter-sink the holes and drive the screws in from below.

Each row was stained before being attached because some boards received a different stain than their neighbors. I found that was easier to drill the two pilot holes from the top of the plywood sheet before placing the boards because it was easier to determine where to place them. The whole assembly was elevated above the work surface so I could then counter-sink the holes and drive the screws in from below.

Here we are just over half done. Notice that the adjacent rows are different thickness to give the pattern some depth. I used a 45 deg chamfer bit in the router table to give a consistent edge. It also hides inconsistencies if any of the boards were not perfectly flat.

Here we are just over half done. Notice that the adjacent rows are different thickness to give the pattern some depth. I used a 45 deg chamfer bit in the router table to give a consistent edge. It also hides inconsistencies if any of the boards were not perfectly flat.

All board pieces were cut a little long so they hung over the edge. Before adding the pieces on the other side of the beginning row, I trimmed all the boards on the just completed long side while I had the straight plywood edge on the other side to place against the table saw fence.

All board pieces were cut a little long so they hung over the edge. Before adding the pieces on the other side of the starting row, I trimmed all the boards on the just completed long side while I had the straight plywood edge on the other side to place against the table saw fence.

A 1-1/2 inch oak frame was added on the edges after completing the pattern. Glue was applied to the edges, then the oak boards were positioned to stand just a bit proud above the thickest boards in the herring bone pattern. Wood species used in the pattern were oak, western red cedar, white pine (stained grey), redwood, and aromatic cedar.

A 1-1/2 inch oak frame was added on the edges after completing the pattern. Glue was applied to the edges, then the oak boards were positioned to stand just a bit proud above the thickest boards in the herring bone pattern. Pipe clamps and brads were used to secure the trim until the glue dried overnight. Two coats of oil-based polyurethane were applied, with a light sand in-between coats. Wood species used in the pattern were oak, western red cedar, white pine (stained grey), redwood, and aromatic cedar.

Two 2x4 screwed on the back side of the headboard at each end to position the head board 2 feet above the floor. Two holes were drilled at the bottom of the 2x4 to attach them to the bed frame with 5/16 inch carriage bolts.

Two 2×4 screwed on the back side of the headboard at each end to position the head board 2 feet above the floor. Two holes were drilled at the bottom of the 2×4 to attach them to the bed frame with 5/16 inch carriage bolts.

Here you can see the colors a bit better.

Here you can see the colors a bit better.

Kitchen Table for Zeek

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We started with the pedestal for the table. It had to be sturdy to support the 7 foot long top. The two pedestals are made from 2x8 southern yellow pine construction lumber. The center upright consists of three pieces with a gap in the center to allow a stretcher to be inserted.

We started with the pedestal for the table. It had to be sturdy to support the 7 foot long, 4 foot wide top. The two pedestals are made from southern yellow pine construction lumber. The center uprights are 2×6 consisting of three pieces with a gap in the center to allow a stretcher to be inserted. The base is made from 3 layers of 2x8s. The center runs the full length, the bottom layer has two pieces that act as outboard feet, and the top layer has two pieces spaced to allow the center upright to be placed between them. All pieces were glued. Screws were placed where they could not be seen – at the very top and bottom where they are hidden by the dados the central upright fit into, and from the bottom.

Three quarter inch depth dados were cut with a circular saw to allow additional uprights to be positioned above the base feet. The 2x8 uprights provided additional support for the heavy top.

Three quarter inch depth dados were cut with a circular saw to allow vertical uprights to be positioned above the base feet. The additional 2×8 uprights provided more outboard support for the heavy top. Small pieces of 2x material were fitted and glued to fill in the space left between the 2×6 center upright, and the 2×8 base. At the very top of the vertical uprights, two more layers of 2×8 were laminated to provide a horizontal support for the top. They were constructed like the base without the outboard feet.

The top was also made from 2x southern yellow pine. A combination of 2x10 and 2x8 stock was carefully selected at the lumber yard for straight edges and no twist. We sifted through their entire stock to find enough true planks. We re-stacked everything neatly so we would be welcomed back.

The top was also made from 2x southern yellow pine. A combination of 2×10 and 2×8 stock was carefully selected at the lumber yard for straight edges and no twist. We sifted through their entire stock to find enough true planks. This was a critical endeavor, since all joining was to be done with hand planes. We re-stacked everything neatly so we would be welcomed back. Two boards were edge jointed at a time. Five 3/8″ dowels were placed along the length of each joint using a dowel centering jig. After gluing, pipe clamps held the boards overnight before two additional boards were prepared for each side of the growing top.

The top was planed between glue-ups to keep the top as flat as possible. Even 3/4 inch pipe will bow under the pressure exerted by the clamps. The flatter the top, the better chance the boards being added would stay flat as well.

The top was planed between glue-ups to keep the top as flat as possible. Even 3/4 inch pipe will bow under the pressure exerted by the clamps. The flatter the top, the better chance the boards being added would stay flat as well.

After all the boards for the top were added, we trimmed the length down to 7 feet (we used 8 foot boards). Then we used a thin batten to create a smooth curve to reduce the width at each end by 4 inches (2 inches removed from each side). We used a jig saw to cut the curve, and then began the process of sanding the top smooth and level.

After all the boards for the top were added, we trimmed the length down to 7 feet (we used 8 foot boards). Then we used a thin batten to create a smooth curve to reduce the width at each end by 4 inches (2 inches removed from each side). We used a jig saw to cut the curve, and then began the process of sanding the top smooth and level. Knot holes were stabilized by filling with clear epoxy. A wood conditioner was applied to the pine before staining to get a more uniform color. Five coats of polyurethane was applied, with a light sand between each coat.

To complement the table, a bench was constructed for one side. Two pedestals were made similar to those used for the table but not quite as robust. They were also made of southern yellow pine.

To complement the table, a bench was constructed for one side. Two pedestals were made similar to those used for the table but not quite as robust. They were also made of southern yellow pine.

The top of the bench was made by edge joining two 2x8. This was done to give enough width to allow the bench top to be curved like the table top.

The top of the bench was made by edge joining two 2×8. This was done to give enough width to allow the bench top to be curved like the table top.

A stretcher was added beneath the bench top, and then the it was stained to match the table and three coats of polyurethane were applied for durability.

A stretcher was added beneath the bench top, and then the it was stained to match the table and three coats of polyurethane were applied for durability.

Stain and polyurethane applied. You can also see the peg that secures the stretcher through the center pedestal upright.

Stain and polyurethane applied. You can also see the peg that secures the stretcher through the table’s pedestal.